Moreover, at idle the situation is much worse, with the alternator putting out only a fraction of its rated capacity at low rpm. In fact, when electronic ignition made its debut as a production system, Chrysler had already switched to solid-state electronics in the charging system with the electronic voltage regulator and the corresponding dual-field alternator. For racers who wanted to retrofit to the new ignition system, a race-only, constant-voltage regulator was offered through Direct Connection now Mopar Performance to make their ignition system compatible with the old charging system. These days, handling the electrical load with power-hungry aftermarket components, such as high-powered ignitions, fuel pumps, electric fans, and the like, will tax the stock charging system well beyond its output, so you may find yourself asking for jumper cables at the next cruise night. OE Mopar alternators were continuously upgraded throughout the years, both in max-rated capacity and low-speed charging ability. In the Chrysler alternator was redesigned to produce 78 amps, which was higher than the previous alternators.
How to Choose an Alternator
The large “BATT” terminal which gets connected to your battery positive. Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped. And a dual terminal connector. Repair pig-tails for this connector available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if pulling the alternator from a vehicle. Marked with a “1” on the case This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning light.
The wire harness in my Tacoma degraded over time and caused the “exciter” wire to stop exciting my alternator, thus causing my charging system to fail while on the highway one night, in the mountains, 50 miles from anywhere, with no cell phone service.
On most leds with leads, the longer lead is positive. Leds are current sensitive devices, meaning that if the current flow through the led isnt limited, the led will burn out. Usually this is prevented by using a resistor to limit the current thru the led. Leds are also sensitive to polarity, meaning the correct wire must be on the positive and the correct wire on the negaive lead of the led or it wont work. We suggest you add the correct current limiting resistor first if you dont know which is the positive and negative wires on your power supply Because leds are semiconductors, you must apply a certain voltage called forward voltage drop before the led will be fully turned on, but when you reach that forward voltage drop, you must then make sure that the current is limited to the manufacturers maximum rating or under.
Alternator Low RPM Charging
Originally Posted by dirtinla I understand how to wire up the 3 wire alternator. The number 1 wire goes to a resistor or dash light and is suppose to glow when not charging. That wire goes to a dash light.
HelloCustomer. The starter solenoid hooks up as follows. There are 2 large post, the battery cable attatches to the one near the battery. The cable that goes to the starter attatches to the other post.
This page is an explanation of the theory of operation behind the alternator and the generator. If you know how these critters work already, then this won’t matter much to you. If they are nothing short of alchemy and you need to work on or need to modify your charging system – then this page is a must-read for you. I wrote this as a side-bar to my work on various projects, see the High Amp Alternators for older GM’s and Alternator Conversions for GM’s articles for more details on each area.
Each section describes a basic component and how it works. My experience and thus this page is heavily tilted toward GM vehicles, so if your manual says different things for your car, trust it instead of me. I know Ford and Chrysler are fairly close to this, but some imported models use some really weird variations on these basic systems.
The basic theory is the same, but some of the wiring is, um, a bit more funky that is described here. In particular, I believe both the Ford and Chrysler alternator systems were externally regulated until well into the ’80s, and neither has the remote voltage sensing feature. There are unique issues to be aware of on each one, so I’d suggest that you go read up on them elsewhere before you attempt a non-GM swap. Or, just be like me and stick a GM alternator in it even if it’s not a GM.
Hooking up alternator, what wires where?
The one wire alternators just don’t live that long defect in the regulator design. If one wire were such a good idea, don’t you think the factories would be doing it all the time? The answer is you can’t make a one wire alternator live through a new car warranty and you can not make it regulate the voltage well enough for modern electronics.
Huge amprage small case alts. Over building an alternator may seem like a good idea, but there is only so much capicaty for cooling the rectifier.
We will discuss how to build your own generator that looks something like this. This generator was built using a 3 horse power Briggs and Stratton horizontal shaft motor, a GM 65 amp automotive alternator (with built in voltage regulator), a used car battery, a pulley and V-belt, a 12 volt cigarette lighter outlet box with fuse, a DC to AC power converter, a low voltage control switch, a scrap.
The 9 cap is available at your local GM dealer. Ask for AC Delco type RC32 part and a 10 cap is available at most autoparts store under a Stant part number , if they don’t have it, have them order it for you. The lower pressure rated caps are not carried by the store much but they are available. Wright One item that makes the radiator leak is using the wrong Pressure Cap. Should be 9 pounds no greater than 10 pounds. Therefore I use a 7 pound cap for many years.
Also your coach is running much Many fan clutches do not work properly Duane Temperature Sender This may be old news for most but doesn’t hurt to be told. This has caused a lot of engine damage when engine starts to overheat.
3G Alternator Install With Pictures
It sounds as if every person that has posted has given you poor or incorrect information. Some were close but mixed up terminology. Second, you do not need to “load test” a battery to determine if it is bad or failing, this is an old technology too!. Many repair facilities now test batteries with a small electronic device which sends a small electrical signal through the battery and monitors what comes out the other side.
Supplementing the September issue of GMC Motorhome News, Sam Carson of Indian Harbour Beach, Florida, has advised that new American Petroleum Institute (API) SM Service Category oils contain a significantly lower amount of zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP) than former API SL, SJ and earler API Service Category oils.
What used motor should you use? As David discussed, his first version of a home built generator used a vertical shaft lawn mower engine which are very easy to find. These mowers can be had for a song and can be found just about anywhere. They have several of the key components that will be required in this project. They have a base that holds the motor, and a cable for adjusting the motor speed. They also have wheels which are very convenient if you ever plan to move it!
The problem is that there are so many brands on the market, and each one it seams builds there own base. The biggest task in building a home built generator is figuring out how to attach the alternator and motor so that power from the motor can be transferred to cause the alternator to spin and produce electricity. The task is harder if a vertical shaft lawn mower engine is used. So for this reason, we will not discuss using a vertical shaft motor and will concentrate on using a horizontal shaft motor.
How-To: Permanent Magnet Alternator Swap (Also known as the Banshee Swap)
Some of these are original, most are “gleaned” from others a cut-paste reminders You will need to provide detail info. Run the engine at about RPM, and the voltage at the battery should be It goes down at higher temperature, so if it’s in the 80’s or 90’s, you may only get to
Mar 07, · check for voltage drops across alternator grd and insulated circuits. With vehicle running turn on all electriacal loads; put voltmeter put red lead on alternator output terminal and black lead on positive battery post.
How to Change an Alternator When a vehicle’s alternator is functioning properly, it will put out between 13 and 18 AC volts that power the electronics and ignition system while recharging the battery. But, if it delivers less than 13 volts, the alternator will fail to keep the battery recharged. You can save money when you replace your alternator by doing it yourself and following the steps below.
Steps Disconnect the positive battery cable. It should be red. It will be a minimum of 2, and no more than 4, bolts depending on your make and model. Make sure the voltage regulator and pulley match up to the old one. If it does not, get the parts house to put the old pulley assembly on the new one. Be sure to check the alignment with the belt tensioner pulley. Now release the tool by putting tension on the belt. You’re helping people by reading wikiHow wikiHow’s mission is to help people learn, and we really hope this article helped you.
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How to Rewind an Alternator
I checked around and also learned that since a larger alternator is not straining as hard to put out the same amount of amperage as a smaller alternator might, it works less and lasts longer. I searched the internet and found plenty of 3G alternator upgrades documented, but I was confused, especially with the wiring even though it is simple and did not find one for our trucks. A couple of people were interested in a write up, so here goes!
No gas. Just fire it up. That’s why I duel fuel the Onan. 30 minute run really cleans that carbon out of for sure and quick starting instead of grinding and waiting on the gas. Then flip the switch to off, when it stumbles, flip to gas.
Asked by IowaFarmBoy Feb 14, at It started fine, all gauges reading normal I’m a habitual and constant gauge-checker. I was out running errands, and after driving for a couple of miles, turned off the truck, and when I went to start it again, just got the “click. I checked the terminals, and the positive was a little loose, so I tightened it up, jumped it – it started right up – and after checking the gauges to make sure all was well went on my way.
After a couple of miles, the engine shut off – as though you’d turned the key – and then popped right on again! When it was off, all gauges were dead and so was the engine. It came back on – all the way, gauges and everything – within about a second. I parked it, let it sit, and jumped it again. Started right up, all systems go, only this time the lights, gauges, and everything but the engine shut down, with the engine finally dying after maybe another mile or so.
Replaced the lead from battery to starter it was a little worn , tried it again. This time I noticed that when the jumper cables are hooked up to the battery, the alternator gauge shows charging – and a little higher than usual, as I would expect. As soon as the jumper cables are disconnected, the alternator gauge shows zero all other gauges showing appropriate levels , and the engine dies almost immediately.